trn Surfs Mexico
Thursday morning (May 20th) at 4:00am, trn packed his two kids, wife, and surfboards atop his car and drove 4 hours south of the Mexican border and then four wheeled for another hour to one of the most secret surf spots in North America.
To understand this spot, you have to understand how it was found. My wife and I were invited to spend the Easter weekend with a family we met in California. The father is a 50 year old surfer who grew up on the coast, has dabbled in competitive surfing but finds his niche in discovering new spots.
Twenty years ago, he and a buddy had been driving up and down the coast of Mexico surfing every spot that had a break. However, due to the topography some spots were completely inaccessible. Not to miss a potentially great spot, they brought down a canoe and loaded their boards in it and began to paddle the coast.
That is essentially how they discovered this gem of a place. The break is always 6 feet, even on the smallest days. On a big swell it can be double overhead. On the backside of the spot is a second surf spot where the wave gets broken into two sections and a good swell can give you a quarter mile ride.
After camping on the spot for years, they became friends with the owner and entered into a lease arrangement and built a house. No running water, the toilet flushes with sea water, but enough solar power to provide adequate lighting and power the casio keyboard for impromptu accompaniment to the 5 string guitar, accordion, and bucket bass.
Never in my life did I imagine that I would experience the explorative surfing culture like this. Epic surf, noone around and the possibility of waking up in the morning and looking at the waves while slurping your breakfast and thinking, ‘yeah, im going out.’ As the tide pulls back and the waves start to break up, you jump in your car and roll to the other side of the peninsula and surf the backside for the other half of the day.
I would post the name of the nearest Mexican town but they guard this place with their life and wouldnt want to betray the trust. All weekend I listened to discussion of the other places they surf with random mexican names that they give them and closely guard to their chest. Years ago, someone they invited along made a surf video and highlighting one of their spots and the guy has been completely shutout. Never to be invited again.
Unfortnately there are no real good photos of trn surfing, mainly because his wife sucks at taking good live action pictures. There are a lot of me sitting on my board but that is lame but here is one of the gang that went.
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Comments
The accomodations sound incredible…. great Parker pic
Oh, and thanks alot for showing up the Easter Bunny post 
one of the people that went with us… i was sporting it for a while but, once again, no good photos, thanks to sheri.
Ah Yes! quite reminiscent of the Mexico trip sequence in Big wednesday - I am sure he knows about it.
The secret name is probably Playa de Milioso (I don’t know how to say ‘Jewish Bear, in espanol)
Can I mention that the reason I got no good photos was because, hmmm….someone had to watch the kids while dad was out surfing!
Nice, Sheri… I was hoping someone would stick up for you - I shoulda known you would address your husband’s “hobbies” and vagabond lifestyle on your own!
Someone needs to point out that as of yet, no photographic evidence has been presented proving that trn can actually surf. There are a few isolated eyewitness accounts (from his wife and a cousin with a questionable background) but those are suspicious at best.
Perhaps that is the heart of the true surfer… Your relationship is with the wave, the intoxicating surf - to hell with the world and its lust for empty bravado. Ride on you King of the Wave - glide off into your sunset shangri-la
I dont restrict advertisers on this site like I do for other sites. I feel that we have a equal opportunity policy here and if they are willing to pay, then they should have a right to lie to me about how available they are.
Its strange what words those advertisers pick up on to target their advertising. I was shocked at the ads “bunny” brought in!
sweet post…. who is in the luchadores mask?